Indie Designer: Mila Ateva of Sassa Björg

'Bright Lights, Deep Shades' collection by Sassa Björg

So as part of the ongoing sustainable fashion debate, I have decided to start featuring the profiles of independent fashion and accessory designers who might not be using eco-fabrics or recycled materials per se (if at all), but instead have made a commitment to producing their designs locally – creating sustained jobs for talented artisans and sewers in their community, and subsequently, providing a way for artistic and cultural ideas to prevail.

Sassa Björg designer, Mila Ateva, being a bit 'sassy' 

(photo credit: Nadya Kaneva)

Mila Ateva of Sassa Björg understands what it means to be indie. She creates all of her designs in a bright and colorful atelier on a garden back street in central Sofia, Bulgaria, and during the rainy afternoon that I visited, she had a dedicated seamstress working away on a sewing machine that was surrounded by a rainbow of thread spools.

Sassa Björg atelier in central Sofia (polaroids by Abigail Doan)

I immediately thought to myself that this is how we should see garment workers working – kindly treated, in dialogue with the designer, and stopping at intervals to ask questions and tweak the designs. It was an inspiring thing to witness. It was a true crafting partnership.

My new wool fiber piece from Sassa Björg

Sassa Björg collections celebrate women with a killer independent spirit, and as designer Mila Ateva revealed to me over coffee, women of all ages collect her pieces as a way to add some edginess ("kinkiness") to their lives and closets. All ages? That sounds pretty sustainable to me.

I loved being able to go through racks of Mila's latest designs while we chatted. The fact that some one was on-site making something during the interview totally energized the combination workspace and retail set up.

The new 'Bright Lights, Deep Shades' collection featured here should definitely be snatched up by women all over the planet, although I think that it is pretty cool that savvy shoppers in Sofia know that their favorite picks are only one of a few in existence globally. For now.

Visit the Sassa Björg Facebook page for information on new designs and events. You can also find a curated selection of pieces online at parAvan.

(image credits)

photographer: Vasil Germanov

model: Yana Gerova

hair:  Lubomir Petrov

make-up: Slav

Review of Ada Zanditon's Poseisus S/S12 Collection

Ada Zanditon ethically made 'Persephone' dress (photo by Sarah Brimley)

My review of Ada Zanditon's 'Poseisus' Spring/Summer 2012 collection is now online at See.7 magazine.

Feature Interview on The Sugar Diaries

  Abigail Doan at The Land/an art site in New Mexico

 handmade paper, vegetation, and sun-powered lighting

I am thrilled to share news that I recently did an interview on sustainable fashion, living, and art making/crafting for one of Hungary's most stylish blogs, The Sugar Diaries.

Here is an excerpt:

"I think that it is important to take small steps to do those things that are achievable and meaningful in your immediate sphere. This could be something very poetic like trying to start a windowsill garden or repairing old clothes that you like but can no longer wear. Using one’s hands brings one closer to the source of a true existence. Buying green is not the only way to go green. I find that people in my neighborhood here in Sofia, Bulgaria, are living very sustainably in ways that are not necessarily trendy. For example, they till small patches of soil outside of their buildings, use the clothesline for drying garments, and certainly have small bundles of garbage that they take down to the street bins. Some times these bags are so tiny, and they obviously have been able to do this by buying food that does not come in packaging and at a higher cost. I also see the older generation canning lots of vegetables and preserves as well as mending textiles that they hang on their terraces. There is a grace to this way of living that is not about being able to afford eco-friendly clothing or design objects, but makes perfect sense for the environment and a life well-lived. This, for me, is what true sustainability is all about."

You can follow The Sugar Diaries here.

Summer Wrap + Lost in Fiber

No. 1 Torn by Mohd Hadpiz

I will not be posting for a few weeks on Ecco*Eco as I conclude the summer with my family, travel to Italy, and work on studio and writing projects. Stay tuned for announcements regarding new initiatives for Autumn 2011. In the interim, please enjoy my visual journal, Lost in Fiber, in order to explore ideas related to 'fashioning self and the environment'. 

A sweet summer conclusion to all.

Sofia Style: Mystical Mountain Simplicity

photo credit: E. Grigorieva

This is the soft summertime look that I am going for today. After visiting Gela, the reputed birthplace of Orpheus in the Rhodope Mountains yesterday, mystical charm and nature-inspired simplicity is in the air. Perhaps I will return to Gela next weekend for the bagpipes festival and to see if I might catch a glimpse of the shades of Orpheus.

top image via The Shiny Squirrel; wildflowers photo by Abigail Doan;

and Gela with mist photo via Hotel Villa Gella / Natalie Tkachuk

Sofia Style: Loup Charmant Grounded Chic

Summer time in Sofia is about cool minimalist geometry and new angles on life. I spend a lot of time each day walking through different neighborhoods with the twins and our dog, Finn. I try to simply allow things to come into focus and meld together as they cross my path. I have to be honest and confess that I have been wearing this black Loup Charmant organic cotton slip a lot – either layered over cropped leggings or as a shift on hot summer days.

I also wear it in the garden to weed in my little plot outside our building as well as on the terrace at night when I open a bottle of good red wine. I have never had a piece of clothing that allows me to dream so much while remaining grounded and at peace.

Thanks, Kee Edwards, for making such a pure and simple designs for women to celebrate who they really are. I love all of my Loup Charmant pieces. (*Necklace is my own creation made on the fly out of ethnic beads, broken crystal chandelier parts, and waxed linen thread).

Summertime in Sofia: KAYU Sunglasses

KAYU Rawa bamboo sunglasses

Some friends have expressed concern that I have runaway from home by slipping away to Sofia this summer, so I decided to occasionally post photos of how happy I am here, and how I choose to wear some of the great fashion designs that I packed or acquire during my travels.

I recently started wearing these KAYU Rawa bamboo sunglasses, as they are so lightweight and provide lots of coverage for my sun-kissed face. They are larger than I usually like my lenses to be, but now that I have been wearing them for awhile, the frames feel like a nice layer of protection. I also like the soft natural hue with my skin tone. Another reason to feel good about KAYU? For every pair of sunglasses purchased, KAYU donates US $20 to fund one sight-restoring surgery in the developing world. True global design vision – makes me even happier.

More summer style photos from Sofia to come / xx

A Return To Nature Or A New Dawn In Fashion?

Alba 02 / site specific installation in rural Italy by Abigail Doan

I am so honored to be a part of a transformative dialogue on EcoSalon this week in an article written by Amy DuFault for her five part series on the post-recession fashion industry. In this latest installment, Amy asks the important question, "Now more than ever, is eco-fashion inextricably linked to conscious connections with land and place?" Follow this trail for an inspiring read and some valuable insight into fashioning the future and a new dawn in our connectedness with the environment and identity.

Savage Beauty & Sustainability

My review of Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty appears on EcoSalon.

*Photography by Sølve Sundsbø via the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Blog

Fashioning Self and the Environment Gifts: 'Of Rags' Fair Trade Fashion

'Of Rags' fair trade fashion: recycled textile trousers 

(photo courtesy of Rachel Schwarz via Liz Ricketts)

I am pleased to share the very groovy news that Of Rags will be offering shopping coupons in the goodie totes that we will offer to the first 25 guests at 'Fashioning Self and the Environment', the art/fashion Earth Day open house at the Textile Arts Center.

"Of Rags is a fair trade fashion cooperative that combines elements of New York style and Ghanaian fashion into unique, artful clothing as a way to globalize the localized. Established in September 2009, Of Rags is the vision of J. Branson, an American social entrepreneur, photographer and musician, and RAAM, a Ghanaian designer and artist in Accra. The organizations employs seamstresses at fair trade wages and plans to work with new design partners, first in Ghana and then around the globe in a cooperative structure."

'Of Rags: Mixed Matched Dress' from textile leftovers

Guests at Friday evening's event wil alsol be able to chat with Of Rags team members, Liz Ricketts and J. Branson, at our community business table. Do not forget to rsvp to: rsvp@textileartscenter.com. See you there!

Save the Date: Fashioning Self and the Environment, An Earth Day Event at Brooklyn's Textile Arts Center

Titania Inglis Spring/Summer 2011 Collection

Save the Date for  this Earth Day event at the Textile Arts Center

in Brooklyn on Friday, April 22, 2011 

Join me for Earth Day 2011 to explore ideas related to fashioning self and our shared environment. Invited artists and local sustainable fashion designers will feature their own fiber, textile, and green design initiatives, as well as offering activities related to slow fashion styling and organic interactions with the environment.

Visitors will be able chat first hand with presenters, participate in on-site activities, and celebrate Earth Day 2011 with refreshments and treats from local sponsors and green businesses.

Susan Benarcik, Meiling Chen of Fearless Dreamer, Abigail Doan, Daria Dorosh, Eko-Lab, Titania Inglis, Eve Mosher, and Zoe Sheehan Saldana – are just a few of the names who will be participating.

Organically Grown sculpture by Susan Benarcik

Friday, April 22, 2011 from 6-9PM

rsvp@textileartscenter.com

Berlin Fashion Week: One's To Watch 'MAICCO'

Unfortunately, I am going to miss MAICCO's show tomorrow afternoon as Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin comes to a close. How amazing is this tunic/frock, though? I cannot wait to see what Georgian fashion designer Maia Samkharadze has in store for A/W 2011.

Berlin FW: 'Patina' A/W 2011 by Isabell de Hillerin

'Patina': Can refer to any fading, darkening or other signs of age, which are felt to be natural or unavoidable (or both). 

There was nothing fading or aged about Isabell de Hillerin's Patina A/W 2011-12 collection shown at Berlin Fashion Week last night. Perhaps it was the white stretch of runway tucked within a stunningly restored transformer station? This collection's hues were sumptuous and 'earth-friendly' and genuinely came to life when exposed to the air. Proof that there is nothing dull or safe about choosing a palette that compliments a woman's skin tone and translates well across seasons.

I have been a follower of Isabell's work for some time, particularly with her initiative to help preserve Romanian textile traditions and endangered fabrics with a story. It was exciting to see that she is still searching for ways to incorporate beautiful handwork and patterning details into designs that are sexy and versatile in their creative layering possibilities.

Testimony perhaps that the surface and value of fashion might be better understood when allowed to bask in the soft light of our environment over time. More on Isabell de Hillerin in my upcoming review of THE KEY.TO Berlin.

*top/runway photos by Abigail Doan/others courtesy of the designer

Using One's Hands as a Way of Creating Connection

'Seasonal Shades' exhibited at The LAND gallery in New Mexico / Abigail Doan (2009)

I was recently interviewed by Amy DuFault, Fashion Editor for EcoSalon, regarding the mental and creative benefits of using one's hands in crafting, fiber work, fashion, and even domestic tasks. You should definitely read Amy's 'Using Your Hands To Soothe The Brain'/part 1 if you are in need of a 'mental vitamin' and some genuine inspiration in the depths of winter.


It is quite flattering to be featured alongside Natalie Chanin of Alabama Chanin and Jill Danyelle of Danyelle.org. Stay tuned for part 2 of Amy's installment early next week on EcoSalon. I am now a regular fiber/fashion/textile contributor to EcoSalon as well.

*You can also follow my daily tweets @lostinfiber

11 Inspirational Sites For 2011

exquisite embroidery courtesy of Alabama Chanin

Alabama Chanin Journal

Art Cloth Text/Mackenzie Frere

Danyelle/Jill Danyelle

Jule Knuepfer photo courtesy of EcoFashionTalk

Eco Fashion Talk/Sass Brown

Goodlifer/Johanna Bjork

Hand/Eye online

photo courtesy of Marcella Echavarria

Marcella Echavarria

Past Fashion Future/Emma Grady

photo courtesy of the Permacouture Institute blog

Permacouture Institute

Social Alterations/Mary Hanlon

The Square Project/Tara St. James

Welcome to 2011 and the fresh white expanse of the unknown. I am sharing some of my favorite links to the art/fashion blogs and websites where I gain my daily inspiration and the fuel to press on during more difficult times.

Ecco*Eco is 'simply' a (non-commercial) space for creating community and shared ideas. I want to make sure that you know that I am working on your behalf so that you can keep doing the amazing work that you do. I want us all to succeed in making this world a more beautiful and sustainable place. 

Folks often ask me how I raise two toddlers, live in multiple cities, tend to aging family, write on a weekly basis, create art, and try to give back. It is all possible because I do not see any other way of living. Doing one makes the other possible. I want you to soak up this vast landscape as well as you cast your net out over 2011. 

Let's do it. I am itching to get started.

On My Work Table in Sofia: Week 3

'Bulgarian tableau 03': materials include recycled lace, vegetation, moss, knotted wool, thread, paper cut outs, and collaged photo spread from a 2009 edition of W magazine 

(image created by Abigail Doan/Sofia 2010)

On My Work Table in Sofia

'Bulgarian tableau 01': materials include cotton string, Japanese rice paper, vegetation, dried leaf, knotted wool, paper cut outs, and collaged photo spread from a 2009 edition of W magazine 

(image created by Abigail Doan/Sofia 2010)

Organic Frills

'Surfaces' OOAK felted wool wall hanging by Vilte

Issey Miyake S/S 2011 in Paris via Style.com

Forest Fungi /Sofia, 2010  (photography by Abigail Doan)

No-ëllk via Fashion Burst

Frei Designs Autumn 2010 by Annie Novotny

Alabama Chanin delicate hand-crocheted necklace