Indie Designer: Mila Ateva of Sassa Björg

'Bright Lights, Deep Shades' collection by Sassa Björg

So as part of the ongoing sustainable fashion debate, I have decided to start featuring the profiles of independent fashion and accessory designers who might not be using eco-fabrics or recycled materials per se (if at all), but instead have made a commitment to producing their designs locally – creating sustained jobs for talented artisans and sewers in their community, and subsequently, providing a way for artistic and cultural ideas to prevail.

Sassa Björg designer, Mila Ateva, being a bit 'sassy' 

(photo credit: Nadya Kaneva)

Mila Ateva of Sassa Björg understands what it means to be indie. She creates all of her designs in a bright and colorful atelier on a garden back street in central Sofia, Bulgaria, and during the rainy afternoon that I visited, she had a dedicated seamstress working away on a sewing machine that was surrounded by a rainbow of thread spools.

Sassa Björg atelier in central Sofia (polaroids by Abigail Doan)

I immediately thought to myself that this is how we should see garment workers working – kindly treated, in dialogue with the designer, and stopping at intervals to ask questions and tweak the designs. It was an inspiring thing to witness. It was a true crafting partnership.

My new wool fiber piece from Sassa Björg

Sassa Björg collections celebrate women with a killer independent spirit, and as designer Mila Ateva revealed to me over coffee, women of all ages collect her pieces as a way to add some edginess ("kinkiness") to their lives and closets. All ages? That sounds pretty sustainable to me.

I loved being able to go through racks of Mila's latest designs while we chatted. The fact that some one was on-site making something during the interview totally energized the combination workspace and retail set up.

The new 'Bright Lights, Deep Shades' collection featured here should definitely be snatched up by women all over the planet, although I think that it is pretty cool that savvy shoppers in Sofia know that their favorite picks are only one of a few in existence globally. For now.

Visit the Sassa Björg Facebook page for information on new designs and events. You can also find a curated selection of pieces online at parAvan.

(image credits)

photographer: Vasil Germanov

model: Yana Gerova

hair:  Lubomir Petrov

make-up: Slav

Evgeni Petkov Continues His Pure Eco Fashion Quest

Evgeni Petkov's new Pure Beauty Collection 

with eco-fabrics and antique embellishments

(photography by Ivomir Peshev / model: Ivelina Choneva for Visage)

Evgeni Petkov's Pure Beauty Collection 

honors Bulgarian culture and the environment

Evgeni Petkov has been an inspiring fashion friend since our first meeting at Sofia Fashion Week in 2009. At the time we discussed the possibilities for introducing sustainable fabrics into his future collections, but the cost and availability of these materials seemed quite prohibitive. Fortunately, through continued dialogue, a prestigious invite to show one of his hand-knit couture gowns on the runway at EcoChic Geneva in January of 2010, and new online sourcing sites, the natural fusion of cultural identity and eco-materials in Evgeni's ready-to-wear and couture designs has become more and more of a reality.

I am thrilled to share news of this latest Pure Beauty Collectionby Evgeni Petkov. These latest pieces are artfully created locally in Bulgaria out ofhand-crocheted eco-cotton, soy silk charmeuse, coconut fiber and rafia palm. This was also the first time that the designer sourced several of his fabrics from Source4Style and Offset Warehouse.

The Pure Beauty hand-crocheted dress mimics the local landscape

Congratulations, Evgeni, on your first semester of fashion studies in London. As a young designer who is only twenty four years old, we are excited to see how you will continue to celebrate your cultural roots as well as your love for exquisite materials.

all images courtesy of the designer

photography by Ivomir Peshev / model: Ivelina Choneva for Visage

hair by Polina Boevska / make-up by Zoran

Ceca Georgieva's Silk Cord Cuffs

So smitten with my new handmade sewn silk cord bracelet by Bulgarian fiber artist friend, Ceca Georgieva. You might recall Ceca's green jewelry experiments, crafted out of vegetation and fiber from her open air studio under the shadow of Mount Vitosha here in Sofia. 

I photographed her design with a backdrop of desert vegetation in anticipation of wearing this piece during my upcoming residency at The LAND/an art site in New Mexico. Cannot wait to be out under open sky exploring ideas related to fashioning self and the environment.

More of Ceca's wearable fiber designs are findable here.

(photos by Abigail Doan)

Painted Series: Slow Fashion Heirloom Artistry

I just want to re-iterate how I jumped for joy upon rediscovering the one-of-a-kind fashion pieces of the 'Painted Series' fashion project at the Cooper Hewitt Design Triennial earlier this week.

Dutch designers Saskia van Drimmelen, Désiree Hammen and Margreet Sweerts' slow fashion design collective, Painted, was inspired by antique Bulgarian clothes to which different generations have added new elements. Something close to my heart given all of the time that I have been spending in Sofia and Bulgarian villages where fine embroidery and lacemaking are still a part of the daily lifestyle.

You can see the entire Painted Series here.

Desert Rose by Evgeni Petkov and Ivomir Peshev

Congratulations to Bulgarian couture designer, Evgeni Petkov, and fashion/portrait photographer, Ivomir Peshev, for their gorgeous collaboration in the August edition of ROUGE magazine. Their landscape-inspired photoshoot, 'Desert Rose' is a succulent celebration of femininity on the pages of this luxe and glossy publication. Stay tuned for upcoming news regarding this talented duo's plans to hit the fashion runways in Geneva this autumn in honor of eco chic couture and traditional Bulgarian textiles.

* above images via Ivomir Peshev's blog
* jewelry design by Valia Bradshow for Rovalia Lea

Hair Raising Tales from Bulgaria

So folks have been asking me to post photos of street chic moments from my outings here in Sofia. These shots are forthcoming, as well as coverage on my recent chats with young Bulgarian designer Evgeni Petkov, who will be showing his first eco couture gown at EcoChic Geneva this October. But in the interim, I could not resist these cool picts demonstrating just how over-the-top the stylists here are. Check out these 'hair raising coifs' featured at a celebration for the launch of Renault Megane in Bulgaria. Talk about hybrid style!